Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know how much my coin is really worth?
A coin’s value is determined by three main factors: rarity (how many were struck), state of preservation (how little wear it shows), and market demand (how many collectors are currently seeking it). Age alone decides nothing: a 2,000-year-old Roman coin may be worth less than a rare Estonian sent from the 20th century.
Should I clean or polish my old coin to make it look nicer?
Absolutely not! This is the biggest and most painful beginner’s mistake. Cleaning a coin at home, scraping it with a toothbrush or toothpick, or soaking it in chemicals destroys its original patina and leaves microscopic scratches. Collectors always prefer “honest dirt,” and the value of a coin with a damaged surface can drop by up to 90%.
What are grades (UNC, XF, VF, etc.) and why is there so much talk about them?
They indicate a coin’s wear. For example, UNC or MS means a completely uncirculated coin that has kept its original mint luster. VF means the coin has circulated for a long time and its details are worn. The price of the same coin in UNC versus VF condition can differ by hundreds or even thousands of times.
What does “slabbing” or certification (NGC, PCGS) mean?
Slabbing means sending a coin to an independent international grading service (usually NGC or PCGS). Their experts verify the coin’s authenticity, assign a precise grade on the 70-point scale, and seal the coin in an airtight security holder. On the market, this is the ultimate mark of trust for a buyer.
I have a €2 commemorative coin in my pocket. Am I rich now?
Most likely not. Most €2 commemorative designs are issued in millions of copies, and one found in circulation is worth exactly 2 euros. Wealth comes only from coins of very low-mintage countries (e.g., Monaco, the Vatican) or special mint errors preserved in perfect (UNC) condition.
Where and how is it safest to store my coins and banknotes?
Stay away from ordinary office-supply plastic sleeves: they often contain PVC, which releases acid over time and forms a green, corrosive layer on coins. Use acid-free numismatic albums, cardboard or Mylar coin flips, or plastic capsules. For banknotes, inert Mylar sleeves are available.
What do the terms obverse, reverse, and edge mean?
Obverse: the front of a coin (usually bearing the coat of arms, the ruler’s portrait, or the principal symbol).
Reverse: the back of a coin (usually where the face value, or denomination, is written).
Edge: the rim of a coin, which may be plain, reeded (with stripes), or lettered (e.g., “EESTI VABARIIK”).
I have an old banknote and a share certificate in my cupboard. Do they count as numismatics too?
Broadly speaking, yes! Collecting banknotes is specifically called notaphily, and collecting historical securities (shares, bonds) is called scripophily. Both fields are closely intertwined with numismatics, and our catalog covers them as well.
How can I check for myself whether my coin is genuine or a forgery?
Start with four basic tests: weight, diameter, magnet, and visual inspection. Every coin has an official weight and precise dimensions that forgers find hard to match exactly. Get an accurate scale (to 0.01 g) and calipers, and compare your measurements with the official catalog. Even a small deviation can betray a fake.
Most silver and bronze coins are not magnetic. If a coin that should be silver sticks to a magnet, the metal is wrong.
Visual inspection is often the most revealing step. Examine the design carefully, with a loupe if necessary, and compare it with a genuine example or a catalog photograph. Examples:
5 marka 1926 — if the reeding is wrong or missing, or the lions look “odd,” the coin is most likely a counterfeit.
1 kroon 1933 Song Festival — if the dots over the Ü are missing or in the wrong place, that points to a counterfeit.
Also watch the shape and spacing of the letters, the sharpness of the imagery, and the surface texture. Blurry or “melted” details are typical signs of a forgery.
When in doubt, always seek professional help: an experienced numismatist can confirm a coin’s authenticity and value.
How do I start collecting without paying too much “tuition” at the beginning?
Don’t buy on emotion. Pick one focus to start with (for example, “Estonian euro coins from 2011” or “gold and silver coins”). Use the official numismaatika.com and K. Laane catalogs to compare prices, or follow the history of closed auctions, not fanciful eBay listings. With older coins, at first prefer slabbed (NGC/PCGS) coins, where authenticity is guaranteed.