A coin’s value is determined by three main factors: rarity (how many were minted), state of preservation (how unworn it is), and market demand (how many collectors are currently looking for it). Age alone decides nothing — some 2,000-year-old Roman coins cost less than a rare 20th-century Estonian sent.
Absolutely not! This is the biggest and most painful beginner’s mistake. Cleaning a coin at home, scraping it with a toothbrush or toothpick, or soaking it in chemicals destroys its original patina and leaves microscopic scratches. Collectors always prefer “honest dirt,” and the value of a coin with a damaged surface can drop by up to 90%.
They indicate a coin’s wear. For example, UNC or MS means a completely uncirculated coin that has kept its original mint luster. VF means the coin has circulated for a long time and its details are worn. The price of the same coin in UNC versus VF condition can differ by hundreds or even thousands of times.
Slabbing means sending a coin to an independent international grading service (usually NGC or PCGS). Their experts verify the coin’s authenticity, assign a precise grade on the 70-point scale, and seal the coin in an airtight security holder. On the market, this is the ultimate mark of trust for a buyer.
Most likely not. Most €2 commemorative designs are issued in millions of copies, and one found in circulation is worth exactly 2 euros. Wealth comes only from coins of very low-mintage countries (e.g., Monaco, the Vatican) or special mint errors preserved in perfect (UNC) condition.
Stay away from ordinary office-supply plastic sleeves — they often contain PVC, which over time releases acid and forms a green, corrosive layer on coins. Use special acid-free numismatic albums, cardboard/film coin holders, or plastic capsules. For banknotes there are special inert sleeves.
Obverse: the front of a coin (usually bearing the coat of arms, the ruler’s portrait, or the principal symbol).
Reverse: the back of a coin (usually where the face value, or denomination, is written).
Edge: the rim of a coin, which may be plain, reeded (with stripes), or lettered (e.g., “EESTI VABARIIK”).
Broadly speaking, yes! Collecting banknotes is specifically called notaphily, and collecting historical securities (shares, bonds) is called scripophily. Both fields are closely intertwined with numismatics, and our catalog covers them as well.
Start with four basic tests: weight, diameter, magnet, and visual inspection. Every coin has an official weight and precise dimensions that forgers find hard to match exactly. Get an accurate scale (to 0.01 g) and calipers, and compare your measurements with the official catalog. Even a small deviation can betray a fake.
Most silver and bronze coins are not magnetic. If a coin that should be silver sticks to a magnet, the metal is wrong.
Visual inspection is often the most revealing step. Examine the design carefully, with a loupe if necessary, and compare it with a genuine example or a catalog photograph. Examples:
5 marka 1926 – kui rihveldus on vale või puudub või lõvid näevad „naljakad" välja, on tõenäoliselt tegu võltsinguga.
1 kroon 1933 Üldlaulupidu – kui Ü-tähe täpid on puudu või valel kohal, viitab see võltsingule.
Also watch the shape and spacing of the letters, the sharpness of the imagery, and the surface texture. Blurry or “melted” details are typical signs of a forgery.
When in doubt, always turn to a professional — an experienced numismatist can confirm a coin’s authenticity and value.
Don’t buy on emotion. Pick one focus to start with (for example, “coins of the Republic of Estonia 1918–1940” or “gold and silver coins”). Use official catalogs and closed-auction histories to compare prices, not fanciful eBay listings. Buy from reputable dealers, or at first prefer slabbed (NGC/PCGS) coins, where authenticity is guaranteed.
